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Dulcimer roundup

The Best Dulcimers for the Money

There's no single best dulcimer, only the right tier for the player you are now. Here's how to find yours.

The Best Dulcimers for the Money

There's no single “best dulcimer”, and anyone who tells you otherwise hasn't met enough players. What there is, instead, is a handful of honest tiers, each suited to a different kind of player and a different kind of budget. Rather than chase model numbers, this is a guide to matching the instrument to you — the player you are now, and the one you're hoping to become.

The Curious Newcomer

If you've never held one before and simply want to find out whether the sound suits you, an entry-level mountain dulcimer is the sensible place to spend your first money. Look for solid tuning hardware and a level fretboard above anything decorative — a plain instrument that holds its tuning will teach you far more than a prettier one that won't. A traditional diatonic fretboard is fine at this stage; you can always trade up later.

The Committed Beginner Who Wants Room to Grow

Once you know you're staying, it's worth spending a little more for a 6½-fret mountain dulcimer. That single extra fret makes major-key tunes noticeably easier without abandoning the traditional, modal sound that makes the instrument distinctive in the first place. At this tier, expect better wood choice, cleaner fretwork and noticeably steadier tuning than an entry-level build.

The Traditionalist Chasing an Older Sound

Some players want the opposite of extra options: a plain diatonic fretboard, drone strings tuned D-A-A or D-A-D, and a body shape — hourglass, teardrop or boat — built the way it would have been generations ago. For this player, a simpler instrument played with a noter and a light touch will do more for the sound than any amount of added hardware.

The Hammered Dulcimer Newcomer

Coming to it for the first time is a different proposition altogether, since even a modest instrument represents a bigger outlay than a beginner's mountain dulcimer. A smaller course layout, often described as 12/11, keeps the instrument lighter, more affordable and less overwhelming to tune while you learn the geometry of the bridges. Make sure a case, stand and pair of hammers are genuinely included before comparing prices between listings.

The Player Who Wants the Full Range

For someone who already plays and wants an instrument that won't hold them back, a larger course count — commonly 16/15 or above — buys a wider range and more chromatic coverage. This is where build quality earns its keep: a well-braced frame and a carefully tensioned soundboard keep dozens of strings in tune far more reliably than a lighter, cheaper frame ever will.

The Session Player Who Needs to Travel

Weight and case quality matter as much as tone if the instrument is going to a folk session every week. A mid-sized hammered dulcimer, or a mountain instrument with a well-made gig bag, spares you the temptation to leave the good instrument at home and take something worse instead.

Names Worth Knowing

You'll come across certain names repeatedly once you start comparing instruments. Dusty Strings has built a strong reputation around the hammered dulcimer specifically, including detailed public guidance on string layouts and tuning schemes. Folkcraft Instruments is a familiar name on the mountain dulcimer side, alongside builders such as Songbird Dulcimers, MasterWorks and David's Dulcimers, and individual luthiers including Jerry Read Smith, Sam Rizzetta and James Jones, whose instruments turn up often in folk circles. None of this makes a particular instrument automatically right for you — try before you buy wherever you possibly can — but it's a useful starting shortlist rather than a cold search.

Leave Room in the Budget for Extras

Whatever tier you land on, leave a little of the budget spare. A soft pick, a chromatic tuner and a proper case cost very little next to the instrument itself, but skipping them tends to cost more in frustration than the money ever saved. A hammered instrument in particular is only good value once its tuning wrench, stand and hammers are accounted for, not bolted on as an afterthought.

Matching the Tier to the Player, One More Time

If any of this still feels like guesswork, our complete buyer's guide walks through exactly what to check on any instrument regardless of tier, and our explainer on the two dulcimer families is worth a read if you're still unsure which one you actually want. And if you're buying your very first instrument rather than your third, our beginner's guide covers the first weeks in more detail than a buying list ever could.

The Bottom Line

The best dulcimer for the money is rarely the most expensive one on the page. It's the one whose tier genuinely matches how you play, how often you'll carry it, and how far you already know you want to go — everything above that is polish.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best dulcimer for a complete beginner?

An entry-level mountain dulcimer with stable tuning hardware and a level fretboard. A plain, well-built instrument at this stage teaches you far more than a decorative one that won't hold its pitch.

Is a 6½-fret model worth paying extra for?

If you plan to stick with the instrument, yes. That single extra fret makes major-key tunes noticeably easier while keeping the traditional, modal character elsewhere on the fretboard.

How much more should I budget for a hammered instrument over a mountain one?

Meaningfully more. Even an entry-level hammered dulcimer, with its larger frame and many more strings, costs considerably more than a beginner's mountain instrument, and a case, stand and hammers add further to the outlay.

Do more courses always mean a better hammered dulcimer?

Not automatically. More courses buy a wider range, but only if the frame and soundboard are well built enough to hold that many strings in tune. A smaller, well-made instrument beats a large, poorly built one every time.

Are named builders worth seeking out?

Names such as Dusty Strings, Folkcraft, Songbird Dulcimers and individual luthiers like Jerry Read Smith give you a sensible shortlist, but trying an instrument yourself still matters more than any name on the headstock.

What extras should be included in the price?

For a hammered instrument, check that hammers, a case and a stand are genuinely included. For a mountain dulcimer, a soft pick and a tuner are the two small extras worth budgeting for separately.

About Laura Mitchell

Laura found her way into music through the folk sessions of Edinburgh's Old Town, where she learned that a song can hold a room without a single amplifier. A festival city upbringing gave her a taste for everything from fiddle tunes to fringe experiments. She writes about acoustic instruments, folk and the craft of songwriting.

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