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Drum Sticks article

The Ultimate Guide to Drum Sticks

What the 7A, 5A and 5B codes really mean, why taper and tip matter more than the label, and the two-minute check that stops you buying a dud pair.

The Ultimate Guide to Drum Sticks

Drumsticks look like the simplest bit of kit you will ever buy, and that is exactly why so many players get them wrong. The truth is that diameter, length, taper, tip and timber all change how a drumstick feels and sounds — and the code stamped on the side only tells you half the story. Here is the plain-English version of what actually matters when you pick a pair.

What the numbers really mean

The familiar codes — 7A, 5A, 5B, 2B — are a rough guide, not a standard. As a general rule a lower number means a thicker drumstick, so a 5A is fatter than a 7A, and the letter loosely hints at the job: “A” for lighter orchestral and jazz work, “B” for band and rock, “S” for marching and street playing. Handy to know, but do not lean on it too hard.

Here is the catch every drummer should hear once: there is no universal sizing. One firm's 5A can be thinner, longer or differently balanced than another's. So compare the actual measurements, not just the label on the wrapper.

SizeRough diameterBest for
7A~0.54 inJazz, quiet gigs, smaller hands
5A~0.565 inAll-rounder: pop, rock, lessons, worship
5B~0.595 inLouder rock, strong backbeats
2B~0.63 inHard rock, metal, marching power

If you are starting out and genuinely unsure, a 5A in hickory is the sensible default. It suits nearly everything, and you can branch out once you know what you want more of.

Taper and tip: the bits nobody mentions

Two drumsticks with the same diameter can feel like chalk and cheese, and the reason is usually the taper — the narrowing between the grip and the tip. A long taper flexes more and rebounds quickly, so it feels fast and light. A short taper keeps mass up near the tip, which means more power and, generally, better durability. That trade-off between speed and punch is the real choice you are making.

The tip shapes the sound against a cymbal or head:

  • Round — focused, precise, articulate.
  • Barrel — broad contact, louder and fuller.
  • Acorn — a richer spread of tone.
  • Teardrop — definition with a bit of width.

You will also choose between wood and nylon tips. Wood sounds warmer and more natural but wears down and changes tone as it goes; nylon is brighter, more consistent and lasts longer on cymbals. Neither is “better” — it is a taste thing.

Hickory, maple or oak?

The timber decides weight, feel and how the stick copes with abuse. Hickory is the safe middle ground: decent weight, good shock absorption, hard-wearing. Maple is lighter, so you can have a fatter stick without the extra heft — lovely and quick, but less durable when you dig in. Oak is dense and tough with plenty of projection, though it feels stiffer and passes more shock back to your hands. Synthetic and aluminium drumsticks exist too, mostly for players who want maximum consistency or a stick that simply refuses to break.

Buy with your hands, not your eyes

Before you part with your money, do the two-minute check that any decent drummer swears by:

  • Roll each stick on a flat surface — a warped one wobbles, and a warped drumstick is a dead drumstick.
  • Check the grain runs straight down the length; knots and runout are weak points.
  • Tap both on a pad and listen — a matched pair should sound close in pitch.
  • Feel the balance in each hand; they should feel like twins, not cousins.

Grip, breakages and looking after them

Most drumstick problems are technique problems in disguise. Hold firmly but do not throttle it — let the fingers and the rebound do the work rather than forcing every stroke down. That is easier on the drumsticks and much easier on your wrists. Going heavier is not a cure for pain or a shortcut to power; if something hurts, look at your grip before you buy 2Bs.

To make a pair last: keep them somewhere dry, rotate practice drumsticks if one side flattens, and retire any drumstick that is cracked or splintered before it lets you down mid-gig. And if you play electronic drums, follow the maker's advice — sharp or damaged tips chew through mesh heads faster than you would think.

The bottom line

Good drumsticks are the ones that let you play in control without gripping for dear life — not the heaviest, not the flashiest, not the pair your favourite drummer endorses. Start with a 5A hickory, pay attention to taper and tip, check every pair before you buy, and change size only when your playing tells you to. Sort that out and the drumsticks disappear, which is exactly what you want.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size drumsticks should a beginner buy?

A 5A in hickory is the sensible all-round starting point: it suits pop, rock, worship and lessons, and is neither too heavy nor too light. Move to 7A for quieter or jazz playing, or 5B for louder rock, once you know what you want more of.

What is the difference between 5A and 5B drumsticks?

A 5B is a little thicker and heavier than a 5A, giving more mass, volume and durability for louder playing. A 5A is the versatile middle ground. Exact dimensions vary by brand, so check the measurements rather than trusting the code alone.

Are wood or nylon tips better?

Neither is objectively better. Wood tips sound warmer and more natural but wear down over time; nylon tips are brighter, more consistent and last longer on cymbals. It comes down to the sound you prefer.

Which wood is best for drumsticks?

Hickory is the safe default, balancing weight, durability and shock absorption. Maple is lighter for a given size and feels fast; oak is dense, loud and hard-wearing but stiffer and transmits more shock to the hands.

Why do my drumsticks keep breaking?

Usually a mix of grain and technique: sticks with knots or runout are weak, and forcing every stroke down instead of letting the stick rebound shortens their life. Rimshots and cymbal-edge contact also take a toll.

Does a heavier stick make you louder or better?

Not really. Extra mass adds fatigue and does not fix technique. The right pair is the one that lets you play in control without gripping hard — volume and power come mostly from how you use it.

About James Harrison

James learned guitar in a cold Leeds practice room and taught himself to fix his own gear when he couldn't afford to replace it. That DIY instinct became a lifelong obsession with how instruments are built and why some just feel right. He writes buying guides and gear features for players who want the honest version, not the sales pitch.

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