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Chimes article

Common Chimes Mistakes to Avoid

Most problems players have with this instrument come from early technique habits — mallet rebound, pedal use, positioning and strike accuracy. Here are the four most common mistakes and how to fix them.

Common Chimes Mistakes to Avoid

Mistakes on chimes are often the result of poor technique habits established early or of misjudging the instrument's physical demands. Here are the most common ones and how to fix them.

Mistake 1: Resting the Mallet on the Tube After Striking

This is the most prevalent beginner error. When playing chimes, leaving the mallet in contact with the tube after the stroke kills the sustain and produces a muffled, strangled tone rather than the clear, bell-like ring the instrument is designed to produce. The mallet must rebound immediately — leaving the tube entirely after striking. Practice the rebound motion on a practice pad until it is instinctive, then transfer to the instrument.

Mistake 2: Ignoring the Sustain Pedal

Playing chimes without using the sustain pedal — or using it incorrectly — produces either an undifferentiated wash of sound (no pedal at all in free-ring mode) or a dry, dead sequence of notes (pedal pressed throughout). The sustain pedal is a musical tool, not an afterthought. Practise with it from the first lesson: press it to separate notes cleanly, release it for passages that should sustain and bloom. Most musical phrasing decisions on chimes are made at the pedal.

Mistake 3: Poor Posture and Reach

Standing too far from the frame causes over-reaching, which leads to imprecise tube placement and extra physical effort. Standing too close restricts the mallet swing. Set up the chimes at the correct height (the top of the tubes at roughly chest height for the player) and stand close enough that the middle tubes are directly in front of you without reaching. In fast passages, the feet move; the common error is trying to stay planted and stretch instead.

Mistake 4: Striking Off-Centre

The mallet must strike the striking cap at the top of the tube — not the side, not the midpoint, not the cord. Striking off-centre produces a rattling, impure tone. This is harder to avoid than it sounds when navigating quickly between tubes of different heights and positions. Slow, deliberate practice of large intervals — crossing from one register of the chimes to another — develops the accuracy and spatial awareness needed for faster passages on the chimes. For a broader introduction to the instrument and how it works, the complete chimes overview covers construction and technique in detail.

Frequently Asked Questions

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I stop notes bleeding into each other?

Press the sustain pedal immediately after the note or phrase you want to end. The damper bar will contact all tubes simultaneously and stop the ringing. In passages where rapid note separation is needed, keep the pedal pressed throughout and only release it for deliberately sustained notes. Developing consistent pedal coordination alongside mallet technique is essential for clean, articulate playing.

Why does my tone sound rattly?

A rattling tone usually means the mallet is striking the tube off-centre — hitting the side wall, the cord, or a point below the striking cap. It can also result from a dent or damage to the cap itself. Check that you are striking the crown cap directly at the very top of the tube. If the instrument is new and the problem persists, have the tube and cap inspected by a percussion specialist.

Is it normal to find the large intervals difficult at first?

Yes. The frame is wide, and the distance between the extremes of the range is greater than it appears. Beginners typically find that fast movement across several tubes to reach a distant pitch involves misjudging distance until the spatial layout is internalised. Practise large leaps slowly and separately, committing the reach to muscle memory before incorporating them into full passages.

Can I fix intonation problems myself?

No. The pitch of a tube is set by its length and diameter at manufacture; there is nothing adjustable in the field. A tube that sounds out of tune has either been dented (altering its resonant properties) or was manufactured incorrectly. Replacement is the only remedy. For minor intonation issues, contact the manufacturer or a specialist percussion repair technician.

What should I do if a tube keeps rattling despite correct technique?

Check that the tube is properly seated in its suspension cord and that the cord is not frayed or in contact with the tube at an odd angle. A tube that has shifted in its suspension will rattle even with correct striking. Also check the cap at the top — if it has loosened, it will rattle on every strike regardless of mallet placement. Both are simple fixes that a percussion technician can address quickly.

About Benjamin Wood

Benjamin taught himself guitar and, later, how to build and mod his own pedals in a spare room in Derby, driven more by curiosity than any grand plan. He loves the point where tone meets electronics. He writes about guitars, effects and gear.

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