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Eurorack Case roundup

Eurorack Case: A Complete Buyer's Guide

Eurorack Case: A Complete Buyer's Guide

Choosing a eurorack case involves decisions that shape the entire system you build on top of it — size, power quality, form factor and budget all interact with each other and with the modules you plan to use. Getting the fundamentals right here saves significant cost and inconvenience later.

Decide on Size First

The most consequential decision is how many HP the rack should have. Standard advice is to buy more space than your current module list requires. The typical progression is: you buy a small case, fill it within six months, buy more space, and spend more than the additional capacity on a larger initial purchase would have cost. Budgeting for at least 84HP at entry level — and ideally 104HP or more — accommodates growth without forcing an early rebuild. Two rows of 84HP is a practical target for anyone who expects to develop the system over time.

Power Supply Quality

The power supply is the most important component in any eurorack case. A weak, underpowered or noisy supply introduces hum, interference and instability across the entire signal path. Spending more on a good supply is more efficient than cutting costs here and paying later in noise problems or module damage. Look at the total mA ratings on the ±12V and +5V rails relative to the modules you plan to use. Leave 20–30% headroom between your total draw and the supply's rated capacity.

Form Factor Options

A eurorack case divides into skiffs (shallow, portable, typically single-row), standard desktop models (more depth, two or more rows) and rack-mountable units. For home use and performance, a desktop case with 60–80mm depth handles the majority of modules. A skiff makes sense for a specific performance rig where portability and weight matter and module selection is controlled. Rack-mounted setups are for studio installations where the case is permanently positioned. Most first-time buyers should look at a desktop powered case in the 84–126HP range.

Wood, Aluminium or Plastic

The material affects weight, durability and aesthetic. Aluminium cases are durable, professional-looking and common among mid-range and higher-end products. Wooden cases are warmer aesthetically, slightly heavier and generally found at boutique manufacturers. Plastic cases are lighter and cheaper but may not provide the rigidity needed for a larger system. For a system that will be moved regularly, aluminium is the practical choice. For a studio installation, any material that provides structural rigidity is adequate.

Brands Worth Considering

Intellijel makes some of the most widely owned eurorack cases — the Palette series for portable skiff builds and the Performance Cases for larger setups. Make Noise produces the Skiff, popular for its compact form. Pittsburgh Modular's Structure series covers the mid-range desktop category well. Tiptop Audio's Happy Ending Kit is an entry-level option for getting started without significant investment. Each addresses different needs; none is universally best. For a walkthrough of setup and first use, see the beginner's guide. The overview covers the fundamentals.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size eurorack case should a beginner buy?

84HP minimum, but 104–126HP is the more practical recommendation. Most beginners fill their first case faster than expected and regret not having bought more space. The cost difference between 84HP and 104HP is small relative to the total system investment.

What is the best eurorack case for portability?

The Intellijel Palette series is well-regarded for portable use — compact, with a built-in power supply and a robust aluminium build. The Make Noise Skiff is another option. For pure portability, a shallow single-row case with a reliable supply is more important than any specific brand recommendation.

How much should I spend on a case and power supply?

Budget at least £150–250 for a quality powered unit at entry level. Spending less typically means compromising on power supply quality, which affects the whole system. The case and supply are infrastructure — underinvesting here is felt in every module you add.

Can I expand my system later by adding a second case?

Yes. Two cases running from separate power supplies work independently, and module signals connect between them with patch cables like any other connection. The practical downside is carrying two units to performances and the additional cost of a second complete power supply. Starting larger is usually more economical.

What power supply specs should I look for?

Look at the mA ratings for the +12V and -12V rails separately. A supply rated at 1.5A (+12V) and 1A (-12V) is adequate for a modest system; 3A or more per rail gives headroom for larger builds. The +5V rail matters primarily for digital modules. Always leave 20–30% headroom above your planned total draw.

Do I need a bus board as well as a power supply?

The bus board distributes power from the supply to individual modules via ribbon cables. Most powered cases include both the supply and the bus boards. If buying an unpowered case and adding your own supply, confirm that bus boards are included or purchase them separately. A supply without bus boards has nowhere to deliver power.

About Jennifer Hill

Jennifer learned piano at home in St Albans and later taught her own children, which gave her a soft spot for family music-making and beginners of every age. She writes about pianos, keyboards and learning to play.

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