Nylon Strings guide
How to Set Up and Use Nylon Strings
Fitting nylon strings to a classical guitar involves a knot most players have never tied before and strings that refuse to stay in tune for the first few days — here is the full setup process explained clearly.
Restringing a classical guitar looks straightforward and then turns out to involve a knot you have never tied before, a nut slot you did not know about, and strings that defy staying in tune for the first three days. None of these are problems if you know what to expect. Here is the complete walkthrough.
What You Need Before You Start
Before removing the old set, gather:
- A new set of nylon strings (check whether your guitar needs tie-end or ball-end strings)
- A string winder (optional but helpful)
- Wire cutters or nail scissors for trimming
- A tuner — clip-on or app
- A clean cloth for wiping down the fretboard while access is easy
Do not remove all the strings at once on a solid-wood instrument if you are not going to immediately replace them. Sudden tension changes can affect the neck and top. Replace strings one or two at a time, or work efficiently.
How to Tie Nylon Strings at the Bridge
The classical guitar bridge uses a tie rather than a pin. The method takes a moment to learn but becomes quick with practice:
- Thread the string through the appropriate hole in the bridge from the back toward the soundhole.
- Pull through about 6–8 cm of string beyond the bridge.
- Loop the short end back over the bridge and tuck it under the section of string that passes over the saddle.
- For treble strings, loop the short end around the string once or twice before pulling snug. This prevents the smooth nylon from slipping loose.
- For wound bass strings, one loop is generally sufficient — the winding provides enough grip.
- Pull the string taut from the headstock end to seat the tie firmly against the bridge.
A tie that slips will detune the string immediately under tension. Treble strings in particular need an extra loop to grip — this is the most common restringing mistake on classical guitars.
Winding Onto the Machine Head
Classical guitar machine heads (the tuning pegs) are typically open-backed with rollers:
- Thread the string through the hole in the roller.
- Pull through enough slack to allow three to four winds around the roller.
- Wind the string so it winds downward on the roller, keeping winds neat and non-overlapping.
- Tune up gradually, checking that the bridge tie seats correctly as tension increases.
Excessive string length at the machine head looks tidy when wound neatly, but too many winds can affect tuning stability. Three to four turns is the practical target.
Stretching and Settling
Nylon stretches considerably more than steel wire. After installation, the strings will go flat repeatedly for the first few days. This is normal — the material is elongating under tension. To speed the process:
- Tune the string to pitch.
- Hold it between the bridge and the 12th fret and gently pull upward about 2–3 cm.
- Retune. Repeat twice more per string.
- Do this across all six strings, then tune the whole instrument again.
Expect to retune regularly for two to three days even after this. After that, the strings should stabilise and hold pitch normally through a playing session.
Setting the Action
Nylon string guitars work best at specific action heights. A widely cited reference point from Guitar World puts the target at roughly 3 mm on the high-E side and 4 mm on the bass side, measured at the 12th fret. Exact preferences vary by player and style — flamenco players typically prefer lower action for speed and percussive playing; classical players may accept slightly higher action for cleaner sustain and tone.
Action adjustment involves the saddle (lowering by sanding the underside if action is too high) or the nut (raising or lowering individual string slots). Both are luthier-level tasks if you are not confident with the tools. Attempting to sand the saddle without knowing what you are doing is a straightforward way to ruin a good piece of bone. When in doubt, take the guitar to a qualified repairer.
Pickup and Stage Use
If your guitar has an undersaddle pickup or a microphone-based system, restringing requires the saddle to be removed and replaced correctly. The saddle must sit flat in the slot and make consistent contact with the pickup beneath — a slightly skewed saddle is a common cause of uneven or weak signal from individual strings. Check the saddle seating carefully after stringing and before playing through the system.
For a full breakdown of how to choose the right strings for your instrument before you reach the fitting stage, the nylon strings buyer's guide covers the decisions. The complete guide to nylon strings explains what the different types are and how they compare.
The Bottom Line
Setting up nylon strings properly takes about twenty minutes once you know the tie technique, and the strings will repay that care with stable, even tone. The main things to get right: a secure bridge tie (especially on trebles), neat machine head winds, a proper stretch-in session, and correct saddle seating if your guitar has a pickup. After that, a few days of regular retuning and the instrument is fully up and running.
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