Integrated Amplifier: A Complete Buyer's Guide

Buying an integrated amplifier is not complicated if you know what to look for. The market ranges from entry-level units under £300 to reference-grade designs above £10,000. What distinguishes a good buy at any price point is not the specification sheet — it is whether the amplifier suits your specific speakers, sources and room.

Start with Your Speakers

The single most important factor in choosing an integrated amplifier is compatibility with your speakers. Two numbers matter: sensitivity and impedance. A speaker rated at 88dB/1W/1m in an average room needs far less power than one rated at 83dB. A speaker with a 6-ohm nominal impedance that dips to 3 ohms on complex loads will stress an amplifier that cannot deliver current into low impedances.

Check the amplifier’s rated power into both 8 ohms and 4 ohms. A well-designed unit approximately doubles its output as impedance halves. If the 4-ohm figure is identical to the 8-ohm figure, or is not stated, the amplifier may have limited current delivery. This matters more than the headline wattage number.

Do You Need a Phono Stage?

If you have a turntable, check whether your integrated amplifier has a built-in phono stage. Moving-magnet cartridges require MM equalization; moving-coil cartridges need additional gain and either MM or dedicated MC equalization. A turntable with a built-in phono preamp can connect to any line-level input. If your turntable does not have one, you need either a built-in phono stage or an outboard phono preamplifier.

Not all built-in phono stages are equal. Entry-level stages are functional but may add noise that becomes audible with high-sensitivity speakers. At the entry-level, an external phono stage costing £80–£150 often outperforms the built-in stage of a similarly priced integrated amplifier.

Digital Inputs and Streaming

Modern integrated amplifiers increasingly include optical, coaxial or USB digital inputs. These allow direct connection of a CD transport, television or computer without a separate DAC. If you plan to stream music, look for Bluetooth, AirPlay 2 or network streaming capability. These can vary substantially in quality; check independent reviews rather than relying on marketing claims.

HDMI ARC or eARC allows a television to route its audio through your amplifier. Useful if your television is your primary source for streaming services. Not available on all models.

Headphone Output

Many integrated amplifiers include a headphone output, but the quality varies. If headphone listening matters to you, check whether reviews specifically comment on headphone performance. A dedicated headphone amplifier will outperform most built-in outputs with demanding headphones. If you use relatively easy-to-drive headphones occasionally, the built-in jack will usually be adequate.

Power Output: Practical Guidance

For a typical living room with speakers of average sensitivity (≥86dB/1W/1m), 50–80 watts into 8 ohms is usually ample. More power gives more headroom for dynamic peaks and demanding passages, but it does not automatically improve sound quality. A 30-watt integrated amplifier that is well engineered and stable into difficult loads will outperform a mediocre 150-watt design in most situations.

Budget Allocation

The conventional rule in hi-fi is to spend more on speakers than amplification. A reasonable distribution for a mid-range system might be 60% on speakers and 40% on amplification. At entry level, the Yamaha A-S801 offers a measured performance-per-pound ratio with a good phono stage and decent DAC. At the higher end, the Marantz Model 30 and Mark Levinson No. 5805 are frequently reviewed alongside each other in UK coverage.

What to Read Before Buying

Our overview guide covers the basics of what an integrated amplifier does. Our beginner’s guide covers how everything connects. And our mistakes guide covers the errors that trip up most first-time buyers.

Frequently Asked Questions