Recorder: A Complete Buyer's Guide

Buying a recorder is not the fraught business people sometimes expect. It is, in truth, one of the more sensible purchasing decisions in music — the essentials are few, the pitfalls are known, and a well-chosen instrument will serve you faithfully for years. But there are a handful of decisions that matter considerably, and getting them right at the outset saves no end of frustration later. Here is what you actually need to know.

Decide Which Size You Need

The recorder family spans a wide range of sizes, and the right choice depends on why you are buying.

• Descant (Soprano) — pitched in C, this is the instrument of school music programmes and the natural starting point for children and many adult beginners. It is small, affordable, and well-served by teaching materials.
• Treble (Alto) — pitched in F, a fourth lower than the descant. It has a warmer, richer tone, a vast solo and ensemble repertoire, and is the preferred instrument for serious adult players and early music ensembles. If you are returning to the recorder as an adult or already have some experience, the treble is often the wiser choice.
• Tenor — pitched in C like the descant but an octave lower. Larger hands are needed; the tone is substantial and well-suited to consort playing.
• Bass — pitched in F like the treble. Used primarily in ensemble settings, it adds warmth and depth to a consort group.

For most buyers reading this, the recorder choice is between descant and treble. Children starting out almost always begin on descant; adults who want a more satisfying solo sound often prefer treble from the start.

Baroque or German Fingering — and Why It Matters

This single decision shapes every aspect of your future playing, so pay it proper attention. Two fingering systems exist:

Baroque (English) fingering is the historical system and the one universally recommended by teachers. The fourth hole from the top is slightly smaller than the fifth, requiring a half-hole technique for certain notes. This produces better intonation and allows you to play the full chromatic scale cleanly.

German fingering was introduced in the 20th century to simplify the F natural — the note most beginners find awkward on a Baroque instrument. The compromise is severe: certain other notes go out of tune or become genuinely unplayable. Most reputable music teachers now refuse to work with German-fingered instruments, and the system has no future in serious playing.

Always buy Baroque-fingered. The packaging will say so, or the product description will specify it. If in doubt, check: a German-fingered instrument will give slightly larger holes in the upper half rather than the lower. Never buy one.

Plastic or Wood?

For most beginners and intermediate players, a quality plastic recorder is the right answer — and there is no shame in that. The best plastic instruments are genuinely good.

Plastic instruments are stable in pitch across temperature and humidity changes, require almost no maintenance, are virtually indestructible, and are very affordable. The Yamaha YRS-302B (descant) and the Aulos 309 (treble) are widely regarded as benchmark plastic instruments — well-intonated, responsive, and pleasant to play. Either will serve a student through years of serious practice.

Wooden instruments offer a warmer, more complex tone that players and audiences generally find more satisfying. They are made from fruitwoods (pear, plum, cherry), maple, rosewood, boxwood, or dense tropical hardwoods such as grenadilla. The reward in tone comes with responsibilities: wooden instruments must be broken in carefully (short sessions for the first few weeks), oiled regularly in the bore, stored away from direct heat and extremes of cold, and handled with care. A crack in a wooden joint is a serious and often expensive repair.

A reasonable upgrade path runs: start on quality plastic, assess your commitment after six to twelve months, then step up to a mid-range wooden instrument if the playing has taken hold.

Key Makers and What to Look For

The recorder world has a relatively small but highly regarded group of specialist makers. Knowing who they are helps enormously when navigating a purchase:

• Yamaha and Aulos — the two dominant quality plastic makers. Both produce Baroque-fingered instruments at student prices that professional teachers recommend without reservation.
• Moeck — a German family firm with a long tradition of wooden instrument making. Their Rottenburgh models (treble and tenor) are a popular entry into serious wooden playing.
• Mollenhauer — another respected German maker, known for excellent craftsmanship at a range of price points, including their popular Denner line.
• Küng — a Swiss maker producing fine instruments, including some that are widely used by professional performers.
• Hohner and Angel — budget-range brands found in toy shops and budget music retailers. They are workable as absolute first instruments for very young children, but they are not the basis for serious learning.

What to Avoid

A few pitfalls come up repeatedly:

• German-fingered instruments — do not buy them, for any reason, for any age group.
• Very cheap "toy" instruments — poorly bored, out of tune, and will not produce a good sound no matter how careful the player.
• Mismatched consorts — if buying for ensemble playing, make sure all instruments use the same fingering system and ideally the same maker's voicing; mixed sets can be noticeably out of tune with one another.
• Missing the case — a recorder left loose in a bag will crack, get dirty in the windway, and collect fluff in the holes. Every recorder deserves at minimum a decent protective pouch. A basic pouch or case is essential.

Budget and Where to Shop

Quality plastic descants start at around £10–£20. A good plastic treble runs £25–£45. Entry-level wooden instruments from Moeck or Mollenhauer typically start around £80–£150. Professional-grade instruments from any of the top European makers can run from £300 into several thousand.

Reputable UK music retailers — including Recorder Workshop, Early Music Shop, and Hobgoblin Music — stock a curated range and can offer advice. General online marketplaces are fine for established brands but require more care to verify specifications.

For further context on what is actually worth playing, our guide to the best recorders for the money covers specific recommendations by price tier. And if you are just starting out, our beginner's guide walks you through what to expect in those first weeks.

Bottom Line

The single most important recorder buying decision is the fingering system — Baroque, always. After that, pick a size suited to your purpose, spend enough to get a quality instrument from a respected maker, and choose a material (plastic or wood) that matches your level of commitment. Get those three things right and the recorder will be a pleasure from the first note. It is, after all, one of the most rewarding wind instruments you can take up — and a well-chosen recorder will serve you far longer than you might expect.

Frequently Asked Questions