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Bassoon article

Common Bassoon Mistakes to Avoid

Most early problems come from a handful of identifiable causes. Here's what to look for and how to correct each one before it becomes a habit.

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Common Bassoon Mistakes to Avoid

Most bassoon players encounter the same set of problems in the early stages, and most of those problems stem from a handful of underlying causes. Identifying them clearly — and understanding what to do about each — makes the difference between slow, frustrated progress and methodical improvement.

Playing on a Bad Reed

More than almost any other instrument, the bassoon's playability depends on the quality of its reed. A reed that is too hard forces the player to blow harder than necessary, which leads to tension, poor tone and intonation problems that appear to be embouchure issues but are not. A reed that is too soft collapses under moderate air pressure and produces a flat, uncontrolled sound. Beginning bassoon players often accept whatever reed they have because they cannot yet tell the difference. Working with a teacher to identify a reed of appropriate stiffness — and developing the ability to make minor adjustments with a small reamer and plaque — is an early priority.

Too Much Embouchure Pressure

New bassoon players instinctively bite the reed to try to control it. On a bassoon, excessive lip pressure produces a thin, pinched tone, takes the note sharp and creates jaw and facial fatigue. The reed needs air pressure — from the diaphragm — not bite pressure from the lips. A consistent, relaxed embouchure with a firm seal and a full breath driving the vibration produces a far better result. If the tone sounds thin and the jaw feels tired after a short session, this is the most likely cause. Long, slow tones — without any attempt to manipulate pitch — help the embouchure settle into the correct position.

Ignoring Assembly Care

Forcing joints together without cork grease, putting pressure on the key mechanism during assembly or inserting the bocal at the wrong angle are all easily avoided and all cause real damage. A single bent key costs £30–100 to repair professionally and can take the bassoon out of use for days. Learning the correct assembly procedure — in order, with appropriate grease, without applying force to any key — is a five-minute lesson that prevents years of unnecessary repair costs. Keep cork grease in the instrument case and apply a thin layer to all cork joints before each assembly.

Practising Too Fast, Too Soon

Any bassoon passage practised at speed with imprecise technique becomes embedded that way. Playing slowly enough that every note is clean and every key change is deliberate is more effective than repeating a fast, approximate version many times. Use a metronome from the first week of practice. Start at fifty to sixty per cent of the target tempo; increase only when accuracy is consistent at the current speed. A short passage learned correctly at slow tempo is worth far more than a long passage learned approximately at speed.

Skipping Maintenance

Neglecting regular swabbing, reed care and key oiling leads to pad damage, sticky keys and moisture problems in the bore that progressively worsen until a repair is necessary. After every session, swab the boot joint and long joint, remove the reed and allow it to dry in a proper case, and check the key mechanism for any sticking keys. Annual professional servicing keeps the instrument playing at its best and identifies minor issues before they become expensive. A bassoon that is properly maintained plays more freely and lasts decades. The beginner's guide covers maintenance routines alongside the core playing technique.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my bassoon sound thin and squeaky?

The most common cause is too much embouchure pressure — biting the reed rather than using supported air. Other possible causes: a reed that is too hard, a bocal that is poorly seated, or a pad leak somewhere in the key system allowing air to escape. Check embouchure pressure first (relax the lip grip and increase breath support), then try a different reed. If the problem persists across multiple reeds, have the instrument serviced.

How do I fix an out-of-tune bassoon?

Several variables affect intonation: reed stiffness (too hard goes sharp; too soft goes flat), bocal length (longer lowers pitch slightly), embouchure pressure and air support. The low register tends flat with insufficient air support; the upper register tends sharp with excessive embouchure pressure. Work with a teacher and a tuner to identify which register is most problematic and whether the issue is consistent (setup) or variable (technique). A comprehensive intonation check with a specialist is worth doing annually.

Can I fix a sticky bassoon key myself?

Minor sticking — where a key is slow to return — is often caused by moisture under the pad. Slide a piece of cigarette paper or non-residue tissue under the pad, close the key gently and pull the paper out. This removes surface moisture and often restores spring action immediately. If the key is mechanically sticky (damaged spring or binding at the pivot), this requires a specialist repairer — attempting to fix it without experience can make the problem worse.

How long should I practise bassoon each day?

For a student in the early months, thirty to forty-five minutes daily is sufficient and more effective than occasional long sessions. The embouchure tires relatively quickly at first — playing through fatigue reinforces poor technique. Short, focused sessions with clear goals (long tones, scales, one technical passage, one piece) build technique faster than undirected long sessions. Increase duration gradually as embouchure strength develops, following your teacher's guidance.

Is it normal for bassoon keys to feel stiff?

New instruments sometimes have slightly stiff key springs that soften with regular use. If specific keys feel unusually resistant or inconsistent, the spring tension may need adjusting — this is a quick job for a repairer. On older instruments, stiff keys more often indicate the need for lubrication at the pivot points. Apply a single drop of key oil with a needle applicator; do not over-oil. If the stiffness is localised to one key and comes on suddenly, check whether a spring has come loose from its hook.

How do I stop squeaking when I play?

Squeaking on a woodwind instrument almost always involves the reed or a leak somewhere in the key system. With a double-reed instrument, a reed that is warped, cracked or too hard can squeal unpredictably. Check that the reed is properly seated on the bocal and is not damaged. If the squeak occurs consistently on the same note, a pad leak on the key covering that note is likely — a specialist can identify this with a leak test during a service. Occasional squeaks during note transitions are normal and improve with embouchure development.

About Thomas Walker

Thomas grew up on the folk and roots music of the North East, where the tradition of Northumbrian tunes runs deep, and has been playing and writing about acoustic music for most of his life. He's drawn to instruments with history and craft. He covers folk, acoustic and traditional music.

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