Rickenbacker roundup
Rickenbacker: A Complete Buyer's Guide
Rickenbacker doesn't follow the usual Fender-and-Gibson script, so here's exactly which specs matter and what to check, whether you're buying new or used.
Buying a Rickenbacker isn't quite like buying any other electric guitar or bass, because the whole design philosophy runs against the grain of the Fender-and-Gibson template most instruments are judged by. Before you commit, it helps to know exactly which specs matter, where the guitar and bass ranges actually differ, and what separates a good used example from a problem waiting to happen.
Guitar or Bass First?
Start by deciding which side of the range you actually want, because the two Rickenbacker ranges don't overlap much. The guitars are semi-hollow or solidbody instruments built for a bright, jangly voice; the basses are a completely different proposition, built around neck-through construction and a shorter, narrower feel than most rivals. Read on for whichever half applies to you — or both, if you're weighing them up.
Choosing Between the Guitar Models
The core Rickenbacker decision is semi-hollow versus solidbody, and six-string versus twelve-string. Here's how the main Rickenbacker models compare on paper:
| Model | Body | Best Suited To |
|---|---|---|
| 330 | Semi-hollow, simpler trim | Players who want the classic voice without extra ornamentation |
| 360 | Semi-hollow, bound and trimmed | Players who want the fuller appointment package |
| 360/12 | Semi-hollow, twelve-string | Chiming, layered rhythm parts |
| 620 | Solidbody | Louder stages, tighter attack, better feedback resistance |
Semi-hollow, in case the term is new to you, means a solid centre block runs through the middle of an otherwise hollow body. It's why these guitars ring out with more natural resonance than a solidbody, at the cost of being a touch more feedback-prone at high volume.
Choosing a Rickenbacker Bass
On the Rickenbacker bass side, you're really choosing between the 4001 — the original 1960s and '70s design — and its modern successor, the 4003. Both share the fundamentals: maple neck-through construction, two single-coil pickups, separate volume and tone controls per pickup, and a three-way selector. The differences tend to come down to production era, specific hardware and finish rather than a fundamentally different concept.
Two specs are worth memorising before you go shopping. The scale length sits at 33.25 inches — shorter than the 34-inch scale on most competing basses — and the nut width runs narrower too, often around 41mm against roughly 43mm elsewhere. If you've only played wider-necked basses, try one in person before you buy; it's a genuinely different feel, not a lesser one.
Specs Worth Checking Before You Buy
Whatever model you're eyeing, run through this list before you hand over money for a Rickenbacker:
- Truss rod type — older and many current designs use two truss rods, while some newer models, such as the 4005V, use a single dual-action rod. Ask which your specific example has before attempting any adjustment.
- Rick-O-Sound wiring — confirm whether the stereo output is present and functioning if separate pickup routing matters to you; it needs the right cable and a receiving amp or interface to actually use.
- Pickup configuration — check both pickups work independently and that the selector switch and pull-up or vintage/modern tone functions (where fitted) behave as expected.
- Neck relief and fret wear — particularly on any used example, since these necks respond differently to adjustment than a standard bolt-on design.
- String gauge and type — roundwounds bring out the characteristic brightness and growl; flatwounds smooth it out considerably. Know which you prefer before you commit to a set.
Buying Used: What to Inspect
A used Rickenbacker can be excellent value, but the checklist is a little more particular than usual. Look closely at the bridge and hardware for correct, period-appropriate parts, since replacement components aren't always simple drop-in swaps given the brand's proprietary designs. Check the neck for even relief along its length rather than a twist or a hump, and be wary of forcing any truss-rod nut that feels stiff — that's a job for a technician, not a screwdriver and optimism. Our guide to common mistakes owners make goes into more of these pitfalls if you want the fuller picture.
Originality matters more here than on many other brands too, since collectors and resellers place real value on unmodified examples. If a seller can't explain a non-standard part, ask why before you pay a premium for it.
New, Used or Vintage?
New buys you a warranty and current specification with no unknowns. Used, bought carefully, is often the sweet spot: lower cost, an established instrument, and none of the true vintage market's premium. Genuine vintage examples carry real collector value and history, but pricing and originality checks matter enormously, and that's a specialist purchase rather than a casual one. If you're still deciding whether a Rickenbacker is the right instrument at all, our overview of the brand and our beginner's guide are both worth a read first, and our round-up by price tier is a good next stop once you've narrowed things down.
The Bottom Line
Buying a Rickenbacker rewards a bit of homework: know your scale length, your nut width, your truss-rod type, and whether Rick-O-Sound matters to you, and the rest is really just a question of which model's proportions and finish you prefer. Get the fundamentals right and you'll end up with an instrument that sounds like nothing else on the market.
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