PRS Custom 24 roundup
Prs Custom 24: A Complete Buyer's Guide
Three tiers, a handful of variants, and a lot of marketing language — here's the honest way to choose the right PRS Custom 24.
Right, let's talk shop. Buying a PRS Custom 24 means picking your way through three tiers, a handful of variants, and a fair bit of marketing language between you and an actual decision. Here's what I'd tell you if you were in front of me, spec sheet in hand.
First Decision: Which Tier?
| Tier | Strength | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Core | US-made, figured tops, the fullest hardware spec | The highest price by some distance |
| S2 | US-built, Core-inspired, currently fitted with 85/15 pickups | Simpler appointments than Core |
| SE | Accessible price, familiar architecture, 85/15 "S" pickups | Built overseas, more economical hardware and finish |
My honest take: don't assume "Core-like performance" means identical materials or quality control just because a retailer's description implies it. Play all three if you possibly can before deciding — the differences are real, even if the family resemblance is strong.
PRS Custom 24 Specs Worth Actually Checking
- Neck profile. Core typically ships Pattern Thin, SE typically ships Wide Thin — genuinely different in the hand, so don't buy on spec sheet alone.
- Pickups. Specifications change by year and tier, so check the exact model and production year rather than assuming every version shares the same electronics.
- Tremolo generation. Current Core models use the Gen III tremolo; SE uses a molded version. Neither is a locking system, so don't expect Floyd Rose-style extreme dive-bombing from either.
- Nut width and radius. Current Core specs list a 1 11/16-inch nut and 10-inch radius — comfortable for most players, but worth confirming if you have particular preferences.
Don't Buy on the Coil-Split Promise Alone
If you're choosing this guitar partly for its push-pull coil-split tone, manage your expectations now: it's thinner and brighter than the humbucker tone, not a genuine single-coil replacement. If true Strat or Tele tones are the actual goal, buy a Strat or Tele. If you want a humbucker guitar with a useful third flavour on tap, this delivers exactly that.
Buying Used? Check These First
- Check neck relief and whether it's been re-fretted or had truss-rod work.
- Balance and inspect the tremolo — a poorly set bridge angle causes tuning problems that look like a bridge fault but usually aren't.
- Play it unplugged first. Dead notes, buzzing or odd resonance show up before you even reach for an amp.
- Check the nut for binding, especially if tuning has been unreliable for the seller.
- Confirm the exact year and tier — pickups, tuners and hardware have all changed over the model's history, so don't assume a "Custom 24" listing tells you everything.
The Custom 24-08 and Piezo: Worth the Extra Complexity?
The 24-08 adds independent coil-splitting per humbucker, genuinely useful if you regularly need a wider tonal palette on one guitar. The Piezo version adds an acoustic-style bridge alongside the magnetic pickups — brilliant if you actually need that acoustic-electric hybrid sound live, overkill if you don't. Neither is a straightforward upgrade; they're different tools for different jobs.
The Verdict on Which PRS Custom 24 to Buy
Buy Core if budget genuinely isn't the constraint and you want the fullest spec. Buy S2 if you want a US-built instrument without Core pricing. Buy SE if you want the architecture and playing feel without the outlay, and you're comfortable with overseas construction and simpler hardware. Whichever you choose, our full features breakdown is worth reading first, and if this is your first serious electric, our beginner's guide covers what to expect once it's home.
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