Pedal Steel Guitar: A Complete Buyer's Guide

Buying a pedal steel guitar is one purchase where I'd genuinely recommend slowing down and asking a lot of questions before you spend anything. It's a mechanically complex, custom-built instrument in a way most guitars simply aren't, and getting the basics wrong at the buying stage causes headaches for years afterward.

Single Neck or Double Neck?

A single-neck instrument, almost always set up in E9, is the sensible starting point for most players heading into country or Americana playing. A double-neck adds a C6 side for Western swing and jazz-leaning work, but it's heavier, pricier and genuinely more to learn at once. Don't buy double-neck "to have options" if you don't yet know whether you'll use the second side — plenty of players spend years on E9 alone before ever touching C6.

What to Physically Check

• Changer mechanism smoothness — pedals and knee levers should move cleanly without grinding, sticking or excessive play
• Return to pitch — release a pedal and the note should snap back cleanly in tune, every time
• Cabinet drop — pressing a pedal shouldn't cause other strings to audibly drift out of tune
• Pickup condition and output — listen for unwanted hum or inconsistent string-to-string volume
• Fret-marker visibility — you rely on these entirely for intonation, so they need to be clear and undamaged
• General mechanical wear — check rods, springs and the changer for rust or corrosion, especially on an older secondhand instrument

New, Secondhand or Custom-Built?

Many respected names in this space — Mullen, Rittenberry, Franklin, ZumSteel, Carter, Justice, GFI, Williams — build in relatively small numbers, and older brands like Sho-Bud and Emmons instruments circulate actively on the secondhand market with real collector value. A well-maintained secondhand instrument from an established builder is often better value than a cheap new one, provided you actually get the changer mechanism inspected properly rather than judging purely by cosmetic condition.

Don't Forget the Rest of the Rig

The instrument itself is only part of the cost. Budget realistically for:

• A dedicated volume pedal with a smooth taper, if one isn't already included
• A clean-headroom amplifier — this isn't the place to skimp, since a muddy amp undoes a lot of the instrument's clarity
• A quality steel bar sized comfortably for your hand
• Fingerpicks and a thumb pick, plus spares
• A proper case or gig bag built for an instrument this awkward to transport

Setup and Maintenance Costs Nobody Mentions Upfront

A used pedal steel guitar often needs a proper mechanical setup after purchase — pull adjustments, lubrication, spring tension and pickup height all affect how it plays and sounds, and factory settings on an older instrument may have drifted years ago. Find a technician who specifically services this instrument rather than a general guitar tech; the changer mechanism is unlike anything on a standard electric and general repair experience doesn't automatically transfer.

E9, C6, or Both — What Actually Suits You?

Be honest about your actual playing goals before you spend more for a double-neck or C6-equipped setup. If country fills, honky-tonk phrasing and vocal-style bends are the goal, E9 alone covers the vast majority of that repertoire. If Western swing, jazz voicings or more complex harmony genuinely interest you, factor C6 into the budget from the start rather than buying twice.

Try Before You Commit, If You Possibly Can

Photographs and spec lists can't tell you how a pedal mechanism actually feels underfoot, or whether the knee lever spacing suits your build. If there's any way to sit at a candidate instrument in person, or borrow one briefly from a teacher or local player, take it — this is a genuinely physical, ergonomic relationship in a way a solid-body electric guitar simply isn't.

Questions Worth Asking the Seller

• What's the exact copedent, and do I have documentation for it?
• Has the changer mechanism been serviced recently, and by whom?
• Are all pedals and knee levers original, or have any been modified?
• What amplifier and volume pedal was it set up and voiced with?

The Bottom Line

Buying a pedal steel guitar sensibly means prioritising mechanical condition and a copedent you actually understand over cosmetics or a famous brand name alone. Get those right and the rest of the decision gets much easier.

Next Steps

For a full explanation of how the whole instrument works, read our complete guide. If you're completely new to this, the beginner's guide is a gentler place to start, and the best options for the money breaks things down by budget. It's worth reading common mistakes to avoid before you commit to a purchase.

Frequently Asked Questions