Epiphone Explorer: A Complete Buyer's Guide

There's a genuinely interesting engineering decision buried inside the Epiphone Explorer range, and it's worth understanding before you buy: passive versus active electronics, and how that choice shapes everything else about the guitar's behaviour. Let's go through what actually matters before you commit to a specific Epiphone Explorer model.

Step one: passive or active?

The standard Explorer runs passive ProBucker 2 (neck) and ProBucker 3 (bridge) humbuckers — no battery required, and a more dynamic response to how hard you pick. The Explorer 80s EMG swaps that out for active EMG 60/81 electronics, powered by a 9-volt battery, which compresses the signal more and pushes a tighter, hotter output straight into your amp. Neither is "better" in absolute terms — it's a genuine trade-off between dynamic range and immediate high-gain punch.

If you're buying the EMG version

Active electronics mean genuine maintenance: keep a spare 9-volt battery in your gig bag, and get into the habit of unplugging the guitar cable when you're not actually playing, since a plugged-in cable drains the battery even when the guitar is silent. A dying battery doesn't just cut out — it can cause reduced output or intermittent distortion mid-song, which is a nasty surprise on stage.

Check the body's practical footprint

This is where a lot of first-time Explorer buyers get caught out. The shape's extended points genuinely change how the guitar behaves off the fretboard:

• A standard guitar stand may not properly support the lower point — check compatibility or budget for an Explorer-friendly stand.
• A generic gig bag or case often won't fit properly; an Explorer-shaped case is worth the extra cost.
• Weight sits around 4.7kg on the EMG model, according to Guitar World's measurements — noticeable over a long set, and worth trying with a strap before buying if you can.

New: check current specification, not old listings

Fingerboard material, finish names and included accessories have varied across production runs and retailers, so treat the official Gibson product page as the reference point over older retailer copy. Reported launch pricing (around £849/$899 for the 80s EMG, and roughly $999 for the Lzzy Hale Custom in some coverage) shouldn't be assumed current — always check the live listing.

Used: what to actually inspect

1. Sight down the neck for movement or excessive relief.
2. Check fret wear, especially in the first five frets where most players spend their time.
3. Test bridge-post stability — wiggle gently and check it isn't loose in the body.
4. Inspect the neck joint closely for hairline cracks, a known risk area on angular body shapes under strap tension.
5. Check the extended body points themselves for chips or dents from being knocked against furniture or stands.
6. On an EMG model, test the battery compartment and confirm the electronics actually power up.

Match the model to your playing

If you play a genuine mix of styles — classic rock through to harder material — the standard passive Explorer is the more flexible purchase. If you're specifically chasing tight, saturated thrash and modern metal tone, the EMG version is built for exactly that. If you want a guitar that also makes a genuine visual statement on stage, the Lzzy Hale Custom adds that on top of solid ProBucker Ignite pickups.

Still deciding?

For the full spec breakdown and background on all three current versions, see our complete Epiphone Explorer guide. If this would be your first Explorer-shaped guitar, our beginner's guide covers the practical basics, and our common mistakes to avoid is worth reading before you finalise anything.

The bottom line

Buying the right Epiphone Explorer comes down to one core decision — passive versatility or active high-gain punch — plus a proper check of the body's practical quirks. Get those two things right, confirm current specs against the official listing, and the rest of the buying process is straightforward.

Frequently Asked Questions