Classical Guitar: A Complete Buyer's Guide

Choosing the right classical guitar is a rather different matter from picking an electric or steel-string acoustic. The conventions are older, the construction more specialised, and the trade-offs between price and quality more sharply defined. This guide will help you understand what to look for, what each price tier actually offers, and which questions are worth asking before you spend your money.

Begin with the Right Question: What Is It For?

Before looking at specifications, be clear about purpose. Are you a complete beginner testing whether the instrument suits you? An intermediate student committed to the classical tradition and expecting to play for years? Or an experienced guitarist seeking a serious performance instrument? The honest answer to that question points you directly to the right price tier — and prevents both under- and over-spending.

Price Tiers Explained

Under £200: Entry-Level Options

At this price, you will find guitars with laminated (plywood) tops, laminated back and sides, and decent — if not exceptional — hardware. This is not a disaster. A laminated top is more resistant to humidity changes than a solid one, handles rough treatment better, and still produces a perfectly serviceable sound for a student who isn't yet sure they'll continue. The Yamaha C40 is the benchmark at this level: consistently well-made, reliably intonated, and honest about what it is. The Admira Infante is another solid choice for beginners.

What you should not expect at under £200: significant projection, tonal complexity, or a response that rewards dynamic subtlety. These qualities cost more to build.

£200–£500: The Solid Top

The critical upgrade at this tier is the solid spruce or solid cedar top. A solid soundboard changes everything about how the guitar breathes and responds — more projection, more overtone richness, and a tone that improves with playing as the wood settles. Back and sides at this price are typically laminated, which is entirely acceptable. The Yamaha CG162S (solid spruce top) and the Cordoba C7 are well-regarded options. Classical Guitar Society members in the UK often recommend the José Ramirez Student line in this bracket, though availability varies.

If you are working with a teacher and making steady progress, this is the tier to enter. A solid-top instrument will serve an intermediate player for many years before genuinely being outgrown.

£500–£1,200: All-Solid Construction

Here you begin to find instruments with solid tops, solid backs, and solid sides. The tonal improvement over a laminate back and sides is most apparent in bass response and the way harmonics sustain. This tier suits players who have committed to serious study — grade 4 and above, or equivalent. The Alhambra 5P and the Cordoba C10 are respected choices; both use solid cedar or spruce tops with solid rosewood or cedar back and sides.

At this price, it is worth playing before buying if at all possible. The variation between individual instruments of the same model can be meaningful.

Above £1,200: Luthier Territory

Beyond the mass-produced market lies the world of specialist luthier instruments. A hand-made classical guitar, built by a skilled maker from individually selected tonewoods, is acoustically in a different category from any factory instrument. Spanish makers — including those from the Ramirez, Contreras and Camps traditions — and British luthiers working in the guild tradition produce instruments that reward the highest levels of technique.

Buying a luthier instrument for the first time is best done with guidance from a teacher or from an established specialist shop (Guitar Village, Stefan's Guitars in London, and Ray Man's shop in Chinatown have all supplied serious instruments to students and professionals). At this level, the relationship between player and instrument becomes genuinely personal.

What to Look For When Trying a Classical Guitar

Action

The action — the height of the strings above the fingerboard — is critical and should be assessed carefully. Too high, and left-hand technique becomes unnecessarily strenuous (a common problem on unset-up student instruments). Too low, and the strings buzz on the frets, particularly on the bass strings when played with any force. A good action at the 12th fret is approximately 3.5–4 mm on the bass strings and 3 mm on the trebles. A luthier can adjust this, but it is better to start with an instrument that is already close to correct.

Intonation

Play a harmonic at the 12th fret on each string, then fret the same note and compare. On a well-made, properly set-up instrument, the two should match. If the fretted note is consistently sharp, the saddle needs to be moved back; if flat, forward. Some degree of intonation compromise is inevitable on a fixed-saddle nylon-string instrument, but gross intonation errors on a new guitar are a warning sign.

The Feel of the Neck

Classical guitar necks are wider than those on other guitars, and the transition can be startling if you're coming from a steel-string or electric instrument. Spend time with the neck in the classical position — thumb behind the neck, not hooking over — and note whether the hand feels stretched in a way that seems manageable. Some players with smaller hands find certain necks more comfortable than others; this is worth prioritising.

New or Second-Hand?

The second-hand market for classical guitars is worth exploring. Unlike electric guitars, where electronics age and amps affect value, a well-kept acoustic instrument can actually improve with age as the wood settles and opens. A ten-year-old solid-top instrument that has been played regularly and kept at stable humidity may outperform a new instrument at the same nominal price point. Buy from a reputable source — a specialist guitar shop or a trusted teacher's recommendation — and have it inspected before purchase if at all possible.

For a detailed look at construction and what distinguishes the instrument's design, the classical guitar explainer covers the key features in depth. And for specific model recommendations at each budget level, the best classical guitars for the money lays them out clearly.

The Bottom Line

Buying a classical guitar well means matching the instrument to the player's genuine commitment level, resisting the temptation to economise at the expense of playability, and trusting ears and hands over specifications on paper. A well-chosen instrument at any budget will reward honest practice. A poorly set-up one — whatever its price — will make everything harder than it needs to be.

Frequently Asked Questions