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Acoustic Guitar: A Complete Buyer's Guide

Buying an acoustic guitar involves decisions about body shape, construction and budget. Here are the key choices and specific model recommendations at each level.

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Acoustic Guitar: A Complete Buyer's Guide

Buying an acoustic guitar means making decisions about body shape, construction quality, tonewood and budget that together determine how the instrument sounds and plays. This guide covers the key decisions and recommends specific models at each level.

Body Shape and Size

Choose your body shape based on how you plan to use the instrument. Strummers and rhythm players are best served by a dreadnought — it is the loudest and most projecting standard shape, and it suits the playing style most beginners start with. Fingerstyle players, or players who prefer a quieter, more balanced sound, should consider a concert or auditorium body. For smaller players or those who find a full dreadnought uncomfortable, a 000 or OM is a better fit. An acoustic guitar purchase made without considering body size frequently results in the instrument being uncomfortable to play, which contributes to players giving up.

Solid Top vs Laminate

A solid spruce or cedar top improves with age — the wood's cellular structure becomes more resonant over time through playing. Laminate tops are constructed from thin layers of wood bonded together; they are more humidity-resistant and durable but do not resonate as richly. For a beginner on a tight budget, a laminate-top acoustic guitar is functional and suitable for learning. For anyone who intends to play seriously, a solid-top instrument is worth the premium — it makes a meaningful difference to the sound. The Yamaha FG800 is the best solid-top acoustic guitar at the entry level; the Seagull S6 Original is excellent at mid-range.

Under £250: Yamaha FG800 (solid spruce top, reliable tuners, excellent value) and the Fender CD-60S. Under £500: Seagull S6 Original (solid cedar top, Canadian manufacture, exceptional mid-range value) and the Yamaha LL6 ARE. Under £1,000: the Martin 000-15M, Taylor Academy series and the Gibson J-45 Standard. Professional tier: Martin D-28, Taylor 814ce and the Gibson J-200. The acoustic guitar market at mid-range is more competitive than other instrument categories — strong value options exist from multiple brands. For beginners specifically, see our beginner's guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I buy electro-acoustic or standard acoustic?

An electro-acoustic adds a pickup system and preamp that allows the instrument to be plugged directly into a PA or amplifier. If you plan to perform live without a microphone, an electro-acoustic is worth the premium. For home practice, learning and occasional unplugged performance, a standard acoustic is sufficient — you can always add a clip-on or soundhole pickup later. The pickup system on budget electro-acoustics is often mediocre; a better acoustic at the same price point tends to be a more worthwhile investment.

How important is the brand?

More important at higher price points, less so at entry level. Yamaha's budget instruments — FG800, FG820 — are consistently built to a standard that lesser brands at the same price point do not match. At mid-range and above, the established brands (Martin, Taylor, Seagull, Collings) offer quality control and resale value that generic or house-brand instruments do not. At the professional tier, brand and specific model matter significantly for tone character and long-term value.

Is buying used a good idea?

Yes, for solid-wood instruments — they improve with age and playing. A used Martin or Taylor at a significant discount to new retail is typically a better purchase than a new instrument at a lower price point. Buying used requires checking neck relief, fret wear, top cracks or delamination, tuner function, saddle and nut condition, and bridge integrity. Having a luthier assess a used instrument before purchase is worthwhile for anything costing over £300.

What strings should I use as a beginner?

Light gauge strings (12-53) are the standard starting point for steel-string acoustic playing. They are easier on the fingertips and require less fretting pressure than medium gauge, making the early learning period more comfortable. Extra-light strings (11-52) are even easier to press but sacrifice some volume and tone. Move to medium strings once calluses have formed and technique is consistent, if more volume or projection is needed.

About Charlotte Bennett

Charlotte grew up in a house where the record player was never off, and turned a teenage habit of scribbling gig reviews into a career spent writing about the music she loves. Based in London, she still spends her weekends digging through the crates in the city's second-hand shops and catching new bands in small rooms before anyone else has heard of them. She writes about guitars, records and the stories behind the songs.

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